Thursday, January 12, 2017

Our Grand Exit - 18 days through the Panama Canal

January 2017

The last day of 2016 was also our last day working in an industry that has served us well for the past few decades. We decided to start our next chapter with an extended escape so that we could clear our minds. Liane, our trusted travel consultant, found an 18-day cruise that seemed like a great fit. It accomplished two objectives – an extended break and landed us in Florida, which was our intended destination.

At this point we are not sure if this is our retirement, extended sabbatical, or simply starting the next thing. It doesn’t matter. We will figure it out. Our first step - unplug from e-mail and phones – and read a lot of stuff that we have been putting off. My near term reading plan includes Hemmingway short stories, Lee Childs mystery thrillers, and Nigel Calder sailing manuals.

Liane knows that I don’t like crowds, I don’t like packing and un-packing, and I don’t particularly like meeting new people – so she found this cruise for us. Since it is the only option that fit into our dates – we said ‘yes’.

It is a small ship and offers certain amenities that inflate the fare to three times that of our past cruising experiences. As such, we have noticed some differences in contrast to the more “affordable” cruise ships. There are no kids – but lots of octogenarians on board. Many of them speak with some derivative of a Commonwealth accent and another large number who speak with an American east-coast posh accent that sounds almost British. Then there is us. I don’t know what we are.

Caviar is served around the clock in unlimited quantities but I haven’t been able to find a single potato chip.

When we tried to board the ship, people kept re-checking our credentials because, from the looks of us and the spring in our step they thought we were supposed to be on the booze cruise down the way.

Upon arrival, we found our cabin stocked with champagne on ice and an engraved invitation to dine with Marie – the cruise ship singer. While our preference would typically be room service pizza and beer taken on our private balcony – we thought for a moment and decided we would accept the invitation. It seemed harmless.

We arrived at the formal dining room at the appointed time. The room is probably capable of holding up to 300 people. I was holding the invitation at an angle of display as my proof that we actually belonged. Whenever I’m in these situations I feel like I’m about to be discovered as an interloper and escorted out.

The maître de greeted us by name (how did he know that?), ignored my awkward flashing of the invitation, offered his arm to Kim, and led us to Marie’s table while I abruptly shoved the invitation into the pocket of my off-the-rack blue blazer.

Marie is attractive and in her early twenties, British singer, proper, polite, and hosted the table of 10 from a seat centrally situated on the oblong table. Kim and Marie chatted and their conversation carried on a bit too long as it seemed they were bonding, being the only two females in the room under the age of 60. I assume the 10 guests were selected at random – but not really sure how we came to be part of this group.

I glanced at the table and noticed with some degree of distress that name cards had been placed so that Kim and I would not be seated together. This added to my anxiety at being in the unfamiliar and uncomfortable situation. I was seated at the pointy end of the oblong table between two pleasant ladies who appeared to be in their early 80’s. To my right was Helen from Texas and then a guy named Morrie (I think) from Connecticut and then Kim. To my left was Connielou, then Morrie’s wife, then Connielou’s newlywed husband – another guy named Morrie I think, and then Marie. The people at the far end of the table are not really part of my story.

The conversation began slowly and politely. We learn that Morrie #1 and his wife ran a men’s fine clothing store in Connecticut, Connielou’s nephew is an Americas Cup sailing champion, Morrie #2 has a nephew who was a world ranked tennis player and is now a commentator on the New England Tennis Channel or some shit (I looked it up – it’s true), Helen moved to Texas from Connecticut after her husband passed away, and oddly enough. Morrie#1 also had a neighbor who moved from Connecticut to Texas after her husband passed away.

There were a couple of bread baskets on the table and one was positioned in front of me. In an abstract act to make it look like I had something to do instead of talk about my expansive worldly accomplishments - I took a roll from the basket and hesitated before I put it on my bread plate. The plates and glasses were all crammed pretty close together so I worked through a pantomime that someone taught me to figure out which bread plate is mine.

Holding my hands out in front of me making little circles with the index fingers and thumbs. Looking down the thumb and forefinger on the left hand make a letter “b” and on the right hand it is a “d”.  “b” = bread goes left. “d” = drink goes right.

At that same moment, I notice that Kim, like me, is taking a tiny cracker-like thing from the basket on her end of the table. She has no intention of eating it – she is just filling a nervous gap in conversation. She proceeds to put the cracker-like thing on the wrong bread plate. I try to get her attention, but she won’t look at me. In fairness to her – the plates were positioned awkwardly and the one she was supposed to use was closer to Morrie#1 while the one to her right was very close to her plate. The natural thing for me to do at this point would be to pass the basket along – but I don’t want to create a bread collision and embarrass Kim when everything would come to a halt. There is no bread flow when one person takes the wrong side. It throws everything off.

So the bread baskets stayed in place. Kim and I were the only two who indulged for the rest of the night. I think the others noticed Kim’s faux pox and politely avoided the impending bread conflict by ignoring the fact that there was bread on the table.

As people get older it seems that people like to complain a lot. We were less than 6 hours on the ship and there was already a long list of complaints coming from our dinner party. Kim and I sat quietly, relieved that we did not have to say much – just nod in agreement at the right time. It got interesting when Helen ordered a coffee and then scolded the waiter for bringing her a coffee instead of a cappuccino. I gave him a slight nod – so he knew that he didn’t actually screw up. He apologized to her and took the coffee away and Helen blurted out “…and this ship doesn’t provide those… you know… escorts”. Huh. That woke me up. “Crystal Cruise Lines provide those gentlemen who will dance with you … this ship doesn’t… what are they called?” hmmm… gigolos I wondered. If we had internet on this ship I would google it.

Earlier in the day I read a short story by Earnest Hemmingway called “The Short and Happy Life of Francis Macomber”. I had read it before.  This was a different version. I think the version we read in high school had the n-word and sex parts taken out of it. In the story, there is an event where Francis Macomber is on safari hunting a lion and he wounds the lion and ends up running like an arm-flailing frightened coward when the dying lion jumps out of the tall grass at him. The great white hunter courageously saves the day.  I was about to have my own Francis Macomber cowardly moment.

As the conversation settled into a comfortable rhythm where the group alternated between complaining about the ship and bragging about their famous kids and nephews and such, Kim and I realized that we could sit back and passively observe without having to contribute much.  I relaxed for a moment … then…

I heard a slipping, crashing sound directly behind me. And a frail voice calling out “Harrrry… I’ve fallen... Harrrrrrry…” I turned behind me and saw a lady and the maître de sprawled on the floor, him having been pulled to the ground by the falling lady. Apparently, the offering of the arm gesture is for show only – they don’t practice stopping an actual fall. Harry continued to shuffle along, oblivious to the crash behind him.

At this moment, the great white hunter would have sprung up from his seat and took command of the situation. Check her breathing and pulse, isolated her neck and spine, “Annie, Annie are you okay?” Cowardly Francis Macomber would pretend nothing happened and reach for another roll from the bread basket. You can guess which thing I did.

A few seconds later, overcome with shame, I realized that I needed to do something. It was too late. The fallen lady was now surrounded by men in their 70’s and 80’s clutching and pulling at her limbs to try to lift her off the ground – this resulted in scooting her across the floor while the poor woman wailed at the pinching and pulling.  I tried to calculate how I could enter the fray and help out. Then she shouted “just leave me alone and I’ll stand up”. And she did.

These falling scenarios are so commonplace on these ships that the interactions at our table never halted. It was like nothing even happened.

The conversation turned to boating. Helen from Texas mentioned that she used to live in a boating community in Connecticut and she had the biggest slip on the property but no boat. So she sold the slip to a guy named Norman.

As they say in Independence… I shit you not… Morrie #1 says “we also knew a Helen in Connecticut who didn’t have a boat and sold her slip to our neighbor, Norman. Isn’t life strange that way”.

Eventually he figured it out…
wait, did you live at xyz and your husband walked around naked all day with the curtains open?”.

“Yes, that was my late husband Ernie. I didn’t know you could see in our windows! We shopped at your store! I remember now”.

“You did. And I always wondered why you came in the store one day and bought pajamas – he never wore pajamas”.

“The home care nurses stopped coming unless he would put clothes on…”

…. We all started laughing and the noise level got slightly higher and we were all being regaled by more stories about naked Ernie…

We didn’t notice at the time – but at the next table there was a gentleman who was glaring at us. Seething. Confused. His party was subdued and ours was getting more raucous as the evening progressed.

He saw beautiful Marie and beautiful Kim being entertained at a table of randomly placed people where no one appeared to be coupled up with anyone yet everyone was talking and laughing. He specifically sneered at me, sitting at what he thought was the “head” of the oblong table. I was in his seat. He is the regaling one. The natural leader of the pack. While I’m basking in the joy that is rightfully his -  he is stuck at somber table #1 in God’s waiting room.

My friends and past blog readers accuse me of embellishing things. So you probably think that last paragraph was some fanciful imagined scene playing out in my head… lest you doubt me … read on.

The seething man got up from his seat in the middle of the meal and walked over to our table. He interrupted our conversation and made an announcement loud enough for most of the room to hear.

“I find you to be a very interesting group. Very interesting indeed. Quite a collection, you all are. Can I ask how you all know each other?”

Morrie #2 gave a dismissive answer to brush him off – but he would not give up.

He extended a pointed finger at the end of his fully extended arm directly at me – like the prosecutor pointing at the guilty defendant…

“You. Yes you. What EXACTLY is your connection to this group?”.

In my mind – what he also said was “I see you sitting there in your outlet mall jacket and I saw you spell out b and d with your fingers because you never learned proper etiquette and I see you trying to eat with two hands and the downward-facing fork in your left hand is the wrong kind of fork and that is why food keeps falling off of it…you are an imposter!!!”

I agreed with him… I didn’t really belong there… I nervously fumbled for my crumpled invitation in the pocket of my cheap jacket…

“Don’t ask me – Marie invited me and I just showed up”. I gestured toward Marie so everyone would stop looking at me.

Which one is Marie? Why did she invite you?”

Marie quietly explained the situation to him and invited him to see the maître de about being invited to a hosted dinner.  Of course, he’d have to wait until the maître de got back from the infirmary following the slip and fall incident.

Morrie #2 dismissed him with a polite and proper equivalent of “get the f* out of here” and he returned to his table. Then the guys made jokes about him while he glared in my direction. Looks like I have a posse who will look out for me.

I’ve seen him on the ship a few times since – and he still glares at me. Retired less than a week and on the ship less than one day and I already have a nemesis. Good news is that I also have a posse.

Liane, what have you gotten me into? What’s my play here? I’m in foreign territory.


Monday, September 22, 2014

The Christmas Gift

On December 24 of last year, Kim took one last glance at her laptop before shutting down for the holiday. An incoming e-mail caught her eye and she asked me to look at it. It seemed like a suspicious African-prince-needs-your-help kind of message. We both looked at it and read it several times with a hesitating finger over the delete key… 
___________________________________________________________
From: xxxx, xxx

Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 11:45 AM

To: Kim

Subject: Reminder Letter

Dear Kimberly,

Thank you again for registering as a bone marrow donor on 06/03/2009 at “Help save Marshall and others at Cerner Corporation!”  We recently contacted you because you are a potentially life-saving match for a patient with leukemia in need of a transplant.


Please call me at 212.209.xxxx so I can explain what this means and answer your questions.


If you'd like us to call you, or you think that your contact information has changed, please let us know the best way and time to reach you by visitinghttp://www.xxx.

It’s critically important that we hear from you, even if you’re not sure you are able to donate.  I am available Monday through Friday from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, Eastern Time.

On the patient’s behalf, we deeply thank you. Your timely response is very much appreciated.
Best regards,

xxx xxxxx
Confirmatory Typing Coordinator

_________________________________________________________

Kim was not certain whether pressing the delete key would delete an e-mail - or delete a life - so she decided to follow up with caution.

It turned out that the message was authentic, and a 48-year-old woman with Leukemia urgently needed a Bone Marrow Transplant.  We don't know who she is or where she lives - but we were given some hints that she probably lives in Germany or Ireland and has a distant genetic relationship to Kim.

The next few months found us trekking across the country a couple of times. Caught in the Washington DC blizzard of the century at Georgetown Medical Center during the first trip.

On our second trip to Georgetown - a surgeon knocked Kim out, drilled two holes, and sucked a liter of Bone Marrow from her hips.

I could probably regale a little with the details of the trips, the tense aftermath of a ski fall, the BMT surgery, and the recovery - but in some cases less is more and maybe I don't need to add much to this story other than to share the message that Kim received this month…
_______________________________________________________ 
From: xxxx, xxxx

Sent: Friday, September 12, 2014 7:24 AM

To: Kim

Subject: Patient Update

Hi Kimberly,
I hope you are well! I wanted to let you know that I received another update on your patient. The information we receive is very general and does not give specifics but it does say that:
1.            The patient is recovering well, is proceeding as expected, and has no serious complications.
2.            The patient has been somewhat able to return to pre-transplant activities.

This is great news!  I hope it is comforting for you to hear that all of your effort has helped this patient regain her health. 

When I contact you for your one year follow up I hope to have another update on your patient.

If you have any questions or concerns please feel free to contact me at the number provided below.

Thank you for everything you have done. We truly believe that donors are special people.

Warm Regards,
xxx xxxx


Saturday, September 6, 2014

Weber Canyon Tubing

Our group of friends decided to enjoy a Summer Sunday in Utah by taking a tube trip down a river. The guys were in charge of the logistics. Nick did most of the actual work – while Greg and I defined the parameters. Nick researched and found all of the options within a 2-hour drive from Park City.

Greg and I eliminated all that had prohibitions on beer. That meant there were 2 options. Nick immediately agreed and felt silly for wasting time on the others.

We chose the one that “discouraged” beer but, in a slight contradiction, also provided a beer cooler inner-tube option. We spent about .001 seconds considering the “discourage” part and about 3 hours evaluating how many coolers we could cram into the cooler tube. And another couple of hours debating our strategy for type and size of beer cans to shove in the coolers.

We finally settled on twist-top pint-sized cans of Coors Light.  And two cooler tubes (one would obviously not be enough). And we’ll load them with soft-sided coolers.

The Friday before the event I had some time over lunch so I decided to do a little research on the river. How dangerous is it? Are there rapids? Water falls? Snakes? Any information I could get would be useful. I started to type in the google search for xxxxx River Tube Rides … before I hit <return> …

“Wait, I don’t have a very good soft-sided beer cooler!”

 So I jumped out of my chair and drove to REI and bought a better one. It took a long time because there are so many to choose from. By the time I got back to my desk I didn’t have any time to do any research on the river.

So Sunday came and the sky was blue and the sun was shining. And we met Greg, Roxi, Nick, Amanda, Pete, and Thea at the parking lot meeting place and put on our sunscreen and jumped on the bus to the get-in-the-water place.

There were stacks of dark red tubes surrounding a grassy lawn area and the girls inspected and selected the perfect tube while the boys huddled around the beer cooler tubes testing out different configurations of coolers and argued about which knot would be most appropriate to lash the cooler tubes to the person tubes.

We lost track of time and I heard a woman’s voice in the distance, speaking with authoritative tone… military-like cadence of delivery – but with a fatigued “I do this 100 times a day” level of energy.  I realized that she was the guide / expert / instructor and we were missing out on some important information.

So I moved away from the beer cooler project to where I could hear her droll, lifeless presentation…

…. Do not mount your tube on this side of the river. You will get stuck in the tree branches around the corner. And you will get hurt. Walk your tube to the far side of the current and mount it there. Once on the tube you will have 9 minutes to get a feel for how to control your tube. After 9 minutes you will see two large rocks with a chute between them. That is the beginning of Rock Alley. Stay left of the Chute or you will get hurt… Once you exit Rock Alley you will encounter Concussion Bridge. There are three tunnels under the bridge. Do not take the left tunnel or your tube will be punctured by rebar and you will be stranded under the bridge. Do not go into the middle tunnel or the rushing current will trap you against a pile concrete. Go to the right. There is an arrow painted on the bridge. And remember to duck or you will get hurt… and on … and on”

Imagine the Normandy scene where the soldiers are crowded in the boats heading toward the beach with the shells blowing up all around them.

“Troops pay attention. These doors will open and you will make your way to the beach. You will engage the enemy in gunfire. Make your way across the beach to the base of the cliffs. Stay to the left of the big rock or you will get hurt. You will climb the cliffs and you will blow up some stuff at the top and then you will wait for further instructions…”

It was time to get in the water.

I had a vision of being stuck in rushing white water - straddling a rock in “rock alley” near the mouth of the wrong-way concussion tunnel with the cooler tube on one side and me on the other side with the rope hopelessly snagged.

I looked over and Nick was already lashing one of the coolers to his tube. That left one more.

“Hey, Greg! You good?  Kim says she needs some help over here getting on her tube so you got that… okay?”

Kim gave me a puzzled look.

I grabbed my first beer and coozie. Shoved it into a pocket and we made our way across the waist high current to the far side of the river and Kim and I gracefully jumped onto our tubes. At least she did. I kind of lumbered like a walrus scooting onto a rock. If the Walrus on the rock found himself laying the wrong way and upside down and with his sputtering face in the water.

I eventually got situated. And placed my beer can into my lap and enjoyed the blue sky and sunshine while I hooked me feet under Kim’s tube and we romantically swirled gently with the current.

“How did you learn to hook your feet like that so that we could stay together?”

“Oh. I’ve been on lots of float trips. We have these rivers in Missouri and I pretty much know what I’m doing”.

“Wow. I had no idea you were so experienced at this outdoor stuff and I feel so safe having you hooked onto my tube.”

We blew air-kisses at each other and I took a moment to look back and see Greg in a familiar beached Walrus position – but he was also wrestling with a rope connected to the extra tube. His wife, Roxi had a concerned – but helpless look as she urged him along and shouted instructions over the sound of the splashing and thrashing.

I felt a little guilty. But popped open my beer and looked forward – not back.

The 9-minute prelude seemed to last about 90 seconds.  At about the same time Greg got comfortable in his rig – we rounded a corner and I saw large white rocks on all sides and as far into the distance as I could see. I could not make out the landmarks that the instructor-expert-guide described. I saw a vast expanse of white rocks and white water.

I decided to unhook my feet from Kim’s tube.

I wonder how you are supposed to steer this thing.



We approached the rocks and the first prelude swell of water took the beer and coozie out of my lap. As I was trying to figure out how to miss the rock in front of me – the second rush of water flipped me upside down and I watched my dark red tube fly above me – a shadow silhouette against the bright blue sky as my face went under water.

Somehow I was able to clutch onto the tube with one hand and a rock with the other. I gasped for air and saw Greg’s double-rig floating ominously with no Greg. Thea was also in the water – holding her upside-down tube and looking for a way to swim through the rocks.

In the Normandy scenario – the boat doors dropped and the three of us got shot before we could even stand up.

I decided the current was too strong for me to execute my walrus move re-mount – so I began to float through the rocks and current. 

My knees and ankles and toes were banging against the rocks- but there was no pain. Adrenaline is a wonderful thing.

Eventually I got back on the tube. As did Thea and Greg. Kim, Roxi, and the others did not fall off.

Thea came over to check on me.

“You are bleeding”

“So are you”

We both had a trickle of blood coming from our knees and I noticed that the dark red color of the tubes was pretty clever – because it masked the bloodstains.

“We have a long way to go”

“Yeah. Let’s go find Pete. I think he saved our coozies”.  Pete had quickly figured out how to steer his tube and he could nimbly scat around the surface of the water at will.

When we could get within shouting distance - Greg quipped, “I guess we should have practiced our re-mount during that first 9 minutes, huh?”

Each of us made it under Concussion Bridge without injury and we settled into a routine of measured chaos for several miles.

Amanda wore a large straw hat that covered her face – but it made it easy to locate her when we all got separated. She was usually leading the way, along with Pete.  At one point I lost track of the rest of our group – but saw the straw hat not far away so I floated along for a bit and thought to myself “wow – I must be going faster- because Amanda is floating along beside me and she is usually out in front “.

I turned to say something to her and she looked at me… It wasn’t Amanda after all. It was some stranger in a similar hat who was getting creeped out about me infringing into her personal space – and wasn’t eager to engage in small talk.

I had fallen far behind the rest of the group.

Roxi took command of the beer cooler rig. I planned to eventually take a turn. That never happened. She escorted it for the rest of the trip.

At one point Kim told me that she should offer to take a turn managing the rig. I told her “No. Roxi is more athletic than you are. She knows how to do outdoor stuff. She’s got it. Don’t worry about it”. Kim opened her mouth to argue with me – but she never said a word because she realized I was right.

Late into the trip, I rounded a corner and I could see Roxi in the distance. She was on the left side of the river, stranded on a rock and surrounded by rushing water. The rope securing the rig was still attached to both and she was calmly sitting on top of the rock evaluating her next move.

I judged that the opposite side of the river was the better route for me- so I willed my tube to go right. A better man would have willed his tube to go left so he could try to save her.  And since my will to nudge my tube left or right has no actual bearing on my direction of travel – I should lie and say I tried to save Roxi. But that isn’t what happened.

What did happen is that I ricocheted off of rocks and spun and swerved on a random path through the current and ended up going left- toward Roxi. I settled into a current that had me heading more or less towards her.

I wasn’t close enough to reach her – but I put on my best act of lunging, reaching, stretching out my fingers so that she could grab me and be saved. I strained and implored her – just…. Grab…. My ….hand… I…. will…. Pull…. You…. Off …. The …rooooock…

As I passed by her – she sat squarely on top of the rock – with water rushing all around her--- and she didn’t reach out to me. The expression on her face said

“Dude. Even if I could reach you – you would just jerk me upside down into the water and then I would have a bigger problem…”

And she smiled politely and then took an exaggerated long sip from her mixed drink as I continued on.

I knew that Greg was behind me. It’s a husband’s duty to save his wife. So it’s probably good that I didn’t get to be the hero. I’ll let him get the glory. That was my plan all along.

Greg will be the hero and redeem us for making her haul the beer cooler the entire journey.

I turned around to watch the heroic rescue. No Greg. Then I located him. He was at the extreme other side of the river. On the path that I originally willed that I could follow.  He shouted something to her. In his authoritative, husbandly voice… I couldn’t hear it clearly, but something like…

“Rox…Rox…!! Push yourself off the Rock!!! And the beer is snagged too!”

Eventually some outdoorsy guys saved Roxi. I think they had Kayaks. Cheaters. She never got wet. Not even a drop.

Amanda, Pete, Roxi, and Kim never fell off of their tubes.  Pete logged the most miles because he learned how to steer and he was in charge of retrieving our lost items.

Nick made it all the way to within site of the finish – and dumped himself in a fairly calm stretch. I didn’t see what happened. When I asked about it he didn’t really answer because he was seething about losing an expensive pair of sunglasses. I think he may have been trying to take a selfie at the finish line.

In the Normandy scenario – Nick made it to the top of the cliffs, blew up some stuff, and died in a bar fight over a pretty French girl.

On the drive home, Kim commented, “Dear, I can’t believe you fell off of your tube so much. You aren’t usually the one who falls when we do things”.

Um hmmm… I blew her an air kiss – but she didn’t notice. I think she was daydreaming about the outdoorsy guys who ruled the river with command of their Kayaks…